Remember when the only way to make a rim tubeless was to cut a tube and overlay the spoke holes, pinched beneath the tire? Or, you could wrap the rim in one to three layers of duct tape or Gorilla tape until the tire became tight enough to seat. Thankfully, we no longer have to fudge things. Rims and tires are designed with tubeless systems in mind, sealants work really well for most punctures, and there is dedicated tubeless tape that can seal a rim for its lifetime — barring major incidents.
I’m a sucker for a good humility moment, and I recently experienced one while chatting with Drew Esherick from Stans NoTubes. Ya see, I’ve always thought that Gorilla tape was great for tubeless setups, and while it does work, Esherick let me know how and why a dedicated tubeless tape is a better option. He mentioned that sealant slowly evaporates through the thick black tape just like it does through the weeping sidewalls of tires because Gorilla tape is porous — where a proper tubeless tape isn’t. That evaporated sealant then enters the inside of your rim, which isn’t anodized and speeds the corrosion of the rim and aluminum nipples. He also said that because Gorilla tape is super thick it can make the tire too tight and increase the chances of it ejecting from the rim. That thickness can also cause the tire to catch on the tape when it’s removed, pulling the edges of the tape up until it needs to be replaced. Finally, Gorilla tape is wicked sticky and flexible, which is why folks like it, but it leaves a large amount of goo on the rim that’s difficult and messy to clean up. Esherick mentioned that Stans tubeless tape isn’t the only one that works well, and the important element is that you find a true tubeless tape that will seal all those spoke holes.
To start, a proper tubeless tape job begins with a completely clean rim, wiped down with something like isopropyl alcohol to ensure there are no oils lingering that will prevent the tape from bonding. Esherick says that if there are any small sticky spots on the rim from past tapes that can be okay, but anything slick like oils or sealant needs to be removed.
Next, you’ll need tape that’s wide enough to reach across the entire inner width of the rim after being pressed down into the rim bed. It’s recommended to start the taping lap opposite the valve since the small overlap of the tape will add a tiny amount of variation at that point and it’s better to keep that overlap away from the already-complex valve. On an alloy rim, you can simply start at the seam. Some people find it helpful to mount the wheel in a truing stand, while others put it on a towel against the floor and sit on the rim for leverage. It’s a good idea to tape rims in a warm room to help the tape stick better. If you have to do it in the cold you can heat the rim a little with a blowdryer to aid adhesion.
Esherick says that with symmetrical rims you want to pull the tape with one hand as if stretching it while anchoring it with the other hand. As the tape is seated against the rim with that pulling force you want to stop roughly every three inches and firmly smooth it against the rim by pressing it into all of the groves and channels with a towel. With asymmetrical rims, he’s found that it works better to keep the tape centered and focus on smoothing it with the towel more than pulling on it as you round the rim.
Once the tape has rounded the rim and is fully smoothed and stuck with no bubbles between it and the aluminum or carbon rim bed you’ll want to overlap it by roughly three inches before cutting the end. Try not to touch the sticky side of the tape when cutting and finishing the wrap, as hand oils can prevent it from sticking. Now that the tape is fully installed, go around the rim another few passes, pressing hard with the towel to double-check that it’s as sealed as can be. If you really want the world’s smoothest tape layer, mount the tire with a tube in it and inflate it to max pressure to let the tube fully compress the tape.
Now it’s time to poke a valve hole. You’ll want to use a pokey object, like an awl, a sharpened spoke, or a dentist pick. Line the pokey object up in the center of the rim’s valve hole, stab it through, and install your valve securely. Esherick says you don’t want to use a knife or cutting device because the cut can continue to spread after the valve is installed, causing a leak. Some people like to heat their poking device so that it melts the tape and ensures a solid hole perimeter. However you make the valve hole, make sure it’s no larger than the valve stem, centered in the hole opening, and doesn’t create cracks or cuts that can spread.
So that’s fairly simple, eh? Esherick had a few other tips for tubeless tire installation that might be helpful. First up, when installing a tire you’ll want to start mounting the bead right next to the valve and make sure the bead drops as far into the rim channel as possible all the way around. Getting the bead deep into the channel, without the interference of the valve stem, will allow for maximum slack in the bead when it’s time to pop that final few inches over the rim wall. Once you arrive at that last bit of tire it can be tempting to grab a tire lever to finish the job, but Esherick recommends doing everything you can to avoid that. Since tire levers use the rim bed as leverage, they will often damage the tape, potentially leaving you will a fully mounted tubeless system that needs to be fully redone. If you have to use one, be as careful as possible not to touch the rim tape with the lever tip.
⭐️ You can find Stans and other tubeless rim tape for sale online.
What tubeless taping tips can you add in the comments below?
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I’ve been using Gorilla Tape for years and have had fewer issues than I did with the Stan’s yellow tape. No issues, I should say. Until it lets me down I will use i as a cheaper and superior solution, from my personal experience.
You’re not siding with the guy with a vested interest in tubeless tape?
As far as cleaning residue, I cannot remember the last time I had to replace Gorilla Tape, if I ever had to. It works that good for me. whereas Stan’s tape would often have to be replaced at the time of a tire change… not so with Gorilla Tape, in my experience.
I was fan of the Gorilla Tape method for years, but then I tried FattyStrippers on my fat bike. Now all of my bikes have them in the wheels. Personally, just never having to clean tape residue again is worth the $2-3 they cost per wheel.
I’m one of those (old) guys that have been using “ghetto” tubeless even before knowing of Stan. But when UST rims came out, that was the real thing for me. I used them with normal (but not too light) xc tires with a good amount of liquid latex (yeah, those homemade mixes with ammonia smell). I think it was back in 2002-2003 when I mounted a pair of UST Mavic DH rims on my do-it-all xc rig (disc brakes, gravity dropper, wide handlebar, U-Turn fork 80-120mm…), because I wanted wide rims even with xc tires, and I absolutely thought that a tubeless system must start from a real tubeless rim.
So yes, I am very disappointed that in 2022 I still have to use a tape to make my rim tubeless, because it’s become the de facto standard.
I’ve had mixed results with all tapes: duct, packing, electrical, and Stan’s. I’ve experienced sealant corrosion on spoke nipples and alloy rims due to tape leaks. I figure it’s just maintenance to replace the tape with the tire and avoid potential leaks on the trail.
Stans is rubbish and so are the bullet points.
All non factors, haven’t used anything but gorilla tape for any wheel I’ve assembled for others, built, or used on my own for years. I’ve had Stan’s tape fail because the edges don’t seal, there’s hardly any adhesive properties, and the sealant barely fills a pinhole. Had nothing but awful experiences with Stans. Gorilla tape and orange seal have been flawless every time, and there’s no residue under the tape on removal if you make sure the rim is clean prior to taping, and use a little heat to remove it… pretty much common sense
Anyone recall Stan’s in the early days of tubeless?
They sold a corrosive sealant that damaged many alloy rims but neglected to mention it even tho it was well known to those in forums.
They sold conversion kits for rims, not designed to be safe with tubeless tires, not by addressing the design of the rim/tire interface but merely making it airtight for their sealant, which might ironically decay said rims. I recall the reports of the occasional tire blowing off the converted rims.
Even tho they now claim their sealant is non-corrosive (while not admitting to prior damage) does anyone really trust these guys for anything? Even if their products are OK now, who wants to support them when we have some many other vendors to choose from?
I’ve tried stans tape, schwalbe tape, the unbadged version of both from 3M….and none of them can last for the life of one tire like gorilla tape does. It takes me about 3 minutes to clean the gorilla tape residue from my carbon rims and the gorilla tape isn’t completely useless after one tire lever crease from installing dh cased tires with cushcore. I’ll never use “proper” tubeless tape again, not until they make something that doesn’t rip and tear like think packing tape. I also use my own brew of sealant and it works beautifully to seal up the occasional puncture from these sharp AZ rocks. I can make a gallon of my homebrew for the price of one quart of Stans. I guess Singletracks has to boost up their sponsors with articles like this…
I have a set of Gorilla taped rims and have used many different sealants (Stans, Orange Seal, Muc Off) without any problems. However, I haven’t checked my spoke nipples to see if there has been any damage. If there is corrosion due to leaky tape, it isn’t bad enough for the spokes to pull out so that’s good. 🙂
I’ve found that dt swiss tape is a lot stickier than Stan’s which makes it easier to set up. Taping rims is one of my least favorite maintenance items. I’ve had decent luck using a stand but I will try sitting on the wheel over a towel next time.
Tesa 4289. Same as Stans but a whole lot cheaper.
I’ve been using a Tuck Tape that is primarily used for sealing and insulating in the construction industry. It’s not porous and I find the blue version is more sticky than the red one.
Also when mounting my fat bike tires (4”+) I sometimes put a ratchet strap around the circumference of the tire and tighten it down to help the bead push out to the edge of the rim. This helps the tire seat with that initial burst of the air from the compressor. As the tire fills you loosen the ratchet.
I don’t think Gerow said anything that was untrue. Here is another option though… Try “Clear” Gorilla tape. Flexy and impermeable. Easy to lay into the rim contours. You also get a visual queue if there is a leaky spot.
Pfft! Here we go with the sales pitchman’s song n dance!
Maybe, just maybe that clown can explain why I had a 9 year run on Gorilla taped wheels on my fatbike, drama free… The only reason I redid the job was to change the color of the tape that is showing through the venerable Rolling Darryl rims.
The myth of residue being difficult to remove was busted in 10 minutes with a little Brakleen on a bloody rag. The wheels were done and mounted within 45 minutes!
Non union bicycle owner said it!